How to increase the number of flower instances: cuttings of roses in autumn
Rose is the queen of flowers. Naturally, the desire of many gardeners to constantly replenish the "pink" collection with new and interesting specimens. The most optimal method of reproduction for the Queen of the Garden is cuttings. This method in the fall at home will not be difficult if you know and use its basic rules. About how to plant a rose from cuttings in the fall and grow it, we will tell in our article.
What is cuttings?
A shank is a specially separated part of a plant (leaf, shoot), which is used for the purpose of vegetative propagation, and cuttings are vegetative propagation of a plant using a cuttings.
A significant advantage of this method of reproduction is the inheritance by a young shoot of all the characteristics of the mother plant, the ease of obtaining planting material (in this way even roses from a bouquet can be propagated). Besides the plants obtained by cuttings do not form root shoots and tolerate winter better.
Plants grown from cuttings have a longer life cycle. There is only one drawback: it will be better if the young roses spend the first winter in the basement, as they have not yet gained strength and have not managed to build up a powerful root system. If this is not possible, then the grower should work hard at their insulation.
When can I cut?
Cuttings of roses are usually made in April - May or in June - July, during the period of active vegetation of the plant. But it is possible to cut the queen of flowers in the fallduring the pruning of plants for the winter. After this pruning, there remains a large number of excellent branches that can be used to cut the cuttings.
There are no universal terms for cutting cuttings, it all depends on the geographical location. The benchmark is the state of the bush: if the leaf blades have withered and started to fall, you can start cutting shoots for reproduction.Distinctive features of autumn works
Autumn cuttings of roses are stored until spring or planted immediately in the ground. Planting cuttings cut in the fall is carried out both in open ground and in the "cuttings" - specially prepared beds for rooting planting material.
The method of rooting in the “cuticle” is planting cuttings in trenches dug in the soil. Their depth is 30 cm, the bottom is covered with grass (2/3 of the total volume), the rest of the place is covered with compost (10 cm).
Cuttings 2/3 burrow into the substrate, the distance between them - 5 - 7 cm. From above, everything is covered with special material to create greenhouse conditions (plastic film, agrofibre, lutrasil).
However, many flower growers believe that it is still preferable to plant cuttings immediately in a permanent place, so they experience less stress and take root better.
The distance between future rose bushes in this case should be 0.6 - 1.5 m, depending on the variety of cuttings.
How to root a plant in the ground under a jar?
- Inventory and materials. To cut the cuttings you will need a garden knife or secateurs. These tools must be sharpened and pre-treated with alcohol to prevent infection. Also, plastic bottles (1 liter - 5 liter) with holes made in the bottom for air ventilation or a glass container will be needed.
In the autumn period, for the safe rooting of rose cuttings, conditions are needed that are close to greenhouse ones (elevated temperature, humidity 80-90%). It is advisable to immediately cover the root of the stem with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle. The container should be transparent, under it an ideal microclimate will be created, which promotes the germination of seedlings. Banks are removed only after wintering in the spring.
- Soil preparation. Rooting is done in well-drained, nutritious soil. The following mixture is suitable: sand, humus, turf land in a ratio of 1: 1: 2.
Do not forget about drainage (sand, broken brick, expanded clay), if the handle is planted in a container. Some gardeners rooting is performed as follows: dig a hole for cuttings with a depth of 30 cm and 2/3 fill it with grass and sprinkle with compost.
- Cutting cuttings. From the branches of the rose cut during the autumn pruning, healthy shoots without visible damage are selected (it is better if they are young or annual shoots with a well-separated green or brown skin), the diameter of which is 4 - 5 mm.
Each of the shoots must be cut into segments, each of which should contain 3 - 5 developed buds (15 - 25 cm). The upper cut is 2 to 3 cm above the upper kidney, and the lower is directly below the lower kidney.
- Cutting Processing. The lower cut under the kidney on the handle is made at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the area of contact with the soil is maximum. The upper cut is straight. The upper leaves (2 - 3), available on the handle, must be left, but it is better to cut them (2 - 2.5 times) to reduce the evaporation area. Lower leaves and spikes should be removed.
If storage during the winter is not planned, then the lower section should preferably be treated with any root stimulant, for example, “Roots”, “Heteroauxin” or “Kornevin”.
- Landing. In the spring, with the onset of warm days, rooted cuttings are planted in the ground in a permanent place. Rose loves light, warmth, does not tolerate drafts.
Of course, it is better if the transplantation takes place by the method of transshipment: the young rose, together with the earthen lump, is removed from the old pot and, without shaking the earth, is placed in the landing pit. If the cuttings were planted in the ground, then they should be replanted carefully, digging along with the adjacent soil.
- Rooting. You can root the rose in a separate plastic pot, it will also be buried in the ground: this step will greatly facilitate the planting of a young plant in a permanent place, which will be carried out by transshipment method. Make a small recess in the substrate, poured into the pot, with a wooden stick, into which a stalk falls at an angle of 45 degrees (1/3 of the shoot or 1-2 kidneys remain above the ground).
If you try to stick the stem directly into the ground without the aid of a stick, then there is a risk of injury to the covering tissues of the shoot.
The ground around the handle is slightly crushed by hands for better fixation, watered abundantly with water.The plant, placed on the root in a pot, is planted directly with the container in the ground, covered with a cropped plastic bottle or jar.
- Further care. Periodically, the rose under the can should be watered. And before the onset of frost, bottles or jars should be sprinkled with earth and covered with non-woven material.
You can also insulate the landing site with straw. It can be mulched with dry grass or peat.
How to save planting material until spring?
- Storage in the refrigerator or on a cold windowsill.
Sliced cuttings are not tightly bonded to each other, wrapped in wet cloth or moistened paper, placed in a plastic bag and cleaned on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or on a cold window sill.
As an option: the cuttings are wrapped with moss - sphagnum, previously soaked with Fitosporin - M. So that the resulting bundle does not fall apart, you can fix it with a cotton thread. All this is placed in a plastic bag, then on a shelf in the refrigerator, designed for vegetables.
- Basement storage. Recommended storage temperature - + 2C - + 5C. The container is filled with a moistened mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. A bundle of cuttings is placed in it, which is dug in half length at an angle of 45 degrees. Top should be tightly covered with a plastic bag, preferably black.
- Outdoor storage. For this method, you need to dig a hole of sufficient depth (15 cm) and width. The bottom of the pit must be covered with covering material (preferably burlap) with a margin sufficient to cover the cuttings from above.
Spread cuttings with removed leaves on top of each other, cover them with covering material, and then sprinkle with earth.
After excavation in the spring, callus will already be visible on the cuttings, which must be carefully taken into account when extracting shoots. They must be planted immediately on the same day when they are dug up.
Landing problems and difficulties, solutions
The main problem with grafting is that roses do not take root.
There may be several reasons:
- Unsuitable soil composition: the rose reacts sharply to a lack of nutrients and trace elements. If the soil is scarce, then it must be "fed" humus, compost.
- A variety of roses that simply cannot be cut. For example, imported roses from bouquets. Before transportation, they are processed with special chemicals that adversely affect the state of escape.
- The seedling was not insulated: the stem, rooted in autumn, is very weak, its own strength is not enough to winter itself. It must be insulated!
Autumn is the best time of the year for cuttings. Cuttings planted for rooting in the fall are more hardy, accepted quickly and in the summer will delight the grower with the first flowers.
Interesting video
We offer you to watch a video about the cuttings of roses in autumn: